there's this brilliant documentary series on bespoke designer Ozwald Boateng titled Why Style Matters that i've recently discovered on Youtube. in the series, Boateng discusses his own style and design philosophy, and also interviews fellow Savile Row tailors, fashion journalists, and design legends such as Giorgio Armani. in one clip, Boateng interviews Suzy Menkes on Armani's revolutionary impact on the fashion world, and she says something really insightful:
"[Armani] understood something about the modern world, and I think that's with all designers...it's understanding the psyche of what's going on. It's not just making the frocks."
and at another point in the clip, Boateng notes that:
"Fashion seems so temporary. And yet, tailoring seems permanent. So that's one of the things I've balanced over the years, being very aware of fashion, without being totally entrenched in it."
see the complete clip here:
i have to admit, i've always been really drawn to exquisite tailoring and all the quiet luxuries that it offers. on a technical level, i also really admire the craftsmanship that goes into a traditionally tailored suit. in the past few seasons, the whole 'borrowed from the boys/tomboy' vibe in womenswear seems to me more than just a seasonal riff on Annie Hall. designers like Phoebe Philo, Stella McCartney, and Isabel Marant have all made their own signature mark by fusing a 'tailored psyche' (or, in the case of Marant, a twist on the conventional idea of fit and structure) with ready-to-wear designs.
there's something stable, permanent, reassuring about an elegantly cut Celine blazer in our crazy, uncertain times. maybe it's the structure inherent in a tailored jacket, which vaguely references the military uniform origins of most menswear classics. i know that this is an ideal, that a Celine blazer is really quite far from many of our realities when we're watching the news and trying to stay on top of our finances and plan for other, non-sartorial goals in our lives. lin blogged about this as well last week. but at the end of a long day out in the world, i'd like to think that the clothes we choose to put on our backs can offer some protection, perhaps some consolation, and lift us a little bit above the din and chaos of everyday life. that, with the added bonus of an expertly fitted shoulder seam, is my idea of enduring style.
what do you think?